Sohomouse

Runway Archive: Blumarine SS1993

tags: fashion, runway-archive, blumarine, 90s-fashion, grunge-romance, italian-design
@Sohomouse 29/07/2026

Blumarine SS1993 - Scan Blumarine SS1993

Ever since I stumbled across a reel of this collection on my FYP, I’ve been completely and utterly obsessed. Like put-under-a-spell obsessed. Like Mariah Carey song Obsessed obsessed. I have no clue what was in Anna Molinari’s water when she made this collection, but I suggest we start slipping it into the drinks of current designers.

Blumarine SS1993 - detail Blumarine SS1993 - detail

The combination of ruffles and flowers with black lace and velvet, create a delightful blend of grunge and romance. Bias-cut silk slip dresses, corsets and sheer chiffon layers that float around the body all contribute to an almost Pre-Raphaelite dream somewhere between Victorian lingerie and Italian glamour. The silhouettes conform to the body, without seeming constricting, instead they skim the surface of the skin, whilst oversized flowers and tiaras sit atop the models’ heads and large crosses dangle from their necks.

Blumarine SS1993 - Look 2 Blumarine SS1993 - Look 3

And, in true me fashion, I fell in love with the black silk slips, with their draping that flows like water, and the black lace stockings. It’s gothic without the melancholia and feminine without feeling overly saccharine — no emergency dentist appointment required. Perhaps that’s why the collection lives rent-free in my mind: never forcing you to choose between rebellion and romance; it simply asks, why not both? After all, who wouldn’t want to look as though they’ve wandered out of a Renaissance painting and straight into a ’90s nightclub?